Incredible vinho and dirt cheap copos just about anywhere, Lisbon is also home to a burgeoning culture of craft beer. Finding a reasonably priced cocktail is a bit harder. Check our picks below, or click around on the map.
Atlas’ Top Picks (listed by Price)
Trobadores – Taberna Medieval €
Rua de São Julião, 27, Baixa
218 850 329 website
Mon – Fri, 12h – 4h, Sat, 2h – 4, Sun, 14h – 24h
Who doesn’t enjoy drinking anything alcoholic from a mug while expertly poking a chouriço assado (flaming sausage) with your own instrument of torture? Look no further, the peasant-shirt wearing wenches at this medieval tavern have what you need. Heavy wooden tables laden with thick earthenware cups and plates take you back to a no-frills era. With a decent food menu and the option to drink your mead from a horn- yes, a horn, this is a great place to escape the rain or simply to rest between points A and B. The bonus is that it’s not completely medieval, as they have taken the best from more recent centuries and supplied their guests with (two!) bathrooms. Parking for horses not available. Bar songs welcome.
Wines of Portugal €
Terreiro do Paço
213 420 690 website
Tue – Sat, 11h – 19h
This isn’t quite a bar, but it does open early! With Portuguese wine taking the top 3 out of 4 places worldwide, it’s not surprising that they want to boast about it. Well I say, take them up on it! If you hit the right hour (and that changes based on demand) you are entitled to a free wine tasting of the sommelier’s choice. Even if you’re lucky enough to sample 1/5 of the regions here, that’s still about 6 different tastes. If you come on an off hour, not to worry! You can buy an Enocard for 2€, which will allow you to taste up to 4 wines from a machine made of magic (depending on how generous you are with your pours). Even better news? The card is rechargeable. You’re welcome.
O Cantinho da Saudade € / €€
Rua Ribeira Nova, 12, Cais do Sodré
916 225 600 website
Sun – Thu, 22h – 2h; Fri – Sat,22h – 3h
If you like the feel of a tasca (watering-hole) and you like expertly made gin and tonics with twists of lemon or basil or caraway seeds, let Francisco work his magic behind the counter – his English is excellent and he will most likely consult with you and your taste buds before the pour. His love for collecting new gins and experimenting with herbal additions that bring out their individual flavors is a treat for 6€, but just chatting away for a 1€ copo (cup) of beer or wine is well worth the stop. Located right behind Ribeiro market, this tiny hole-in-the-wall is easily passed by as it isn’t your typical sit-down and stay a while bar, but you’ll not notice the hours passing by while listening to one of its clients riffing on a guitar out front and sipping on your poison of choice.
O’Gilin’s Irish Pub €€
Rua dos Remolares, 8 – 10, Cais do Sodré
213 421 899 website
Daily, 11h – 2h
Lisbon’s oldest Irish Pub sets the tone for whatever mischief you’re up to. It boasts a trivia night and has live music (usually of the Irish variety) 4 nights a week. They serve a nicely poured pint of Guinness and Kilkenny if that’s your thing – or if it’s whiskey you’re after, you’ve come to the right place. The staff is super-friendly and helpful, and always game for a laugh. Their kitchen offers both bar snacks and full meals, and for us Americans with our affinity for nachos and chicken wings, it’s a must-do if you’ve had your fill of bacalhau (cod fish) and you’re in for something that reminds you of wherever you call home.
British Bar €€
Largo do Corpo Santo 52, 1200, Cais do Sodré
213 422 367 website
Mon – Sat, 12h – 4h; Sun, 12h – 21h
A long counter with an old bartender is just what you need sometimes. This bar was a classy place at one time and as it has aged, it has gotten even better. It’s a great place for a gin and tonic (without the bells and whistles) and for a good chat with your chums. Their house red wine is always on point and unlike some other pubs in the area, it’s not of the headache variety. You might find yourself popping in for just one drink, and staying for far more once you see the variety of brews on tap. This joint knows how to keep your cheeks rosy and your wallet happy.
Castro Beer €€
Rua de São Paulo 117, Cais Sodré
No known phone website
Mon, 14h – 24h; Tue – Thu, 14h – 2h; Fri – Sat, 14h – 3h
This bar has done a lot of things right, but nothing beats its mastery of ginger (and regular) caipirinhas. A large papier mâché mask peers out through one of its front windows while whitewashed palettes are re-purposed into a hanging garden as you enter. Picnic tables are mixed with all-white painted discarded antiques and you can almost certainly find the footie match being projected onto the wall at the back. As one of the few places with barstools, we like to begin the evening here and reconnect with old habits. While some bars herald their happy-hour sugar-and-cachaça concoctions, this place is the real deal and worth paying full price no matter the hour. At times they will set up a grill out front so you can watch your tasty appetizer of chouriço (sausage) or sardinhas (sardines) sizzle. The cave downstairs hosts awesome dance parties on the weekends.
Calçada do Marquês de Abrantes, 82, Santos
216 031 562 website
Mon – Sat, 12h – 2h
For a glass of wine (or a selection from their well-hidden full bar at the back), this is a comfy little hole-in-the-wall in Santos with living room style seating surrounded by tin soldiers, miniature racing, cars and even an ancient stack of games like parcheesi and Chinese checkers. The deserts displayed on the front table are sinfully delicious. Expect to pay next to nothing for beer and wine, and after a chat, you might just get the next one free. The owner usually posts up outside the front door taking in the air and a camel, but don’t let his demeanor deter you from going inside — he’s probably just debating whether or not you are a fan of table-top basketball.
O Arranca-Corações — R.I.P.
Calçada Cardeal 20, Santa Apalonia
960 475 667 website
Owners Vítor Pinto and Gonçalo Ogando opened Lisbon’s first steampunk bar catered specifically (but not exclusively) to Lisbon’s burgeoning Steampunk scene with their very classy new bar. Designed by the architect Catarina Matos, the interior is an inviting slate grey and green palette with rich wooden trims, deep red Victorian upholstry, clean lines, and of course metal fixings scattered in unexpected places. Even the bathroom is its own steampunk wonderland, with black tiles, copper pipes, and a Victorian vanity. No detail has been overlooked in this cozy café-bar-petiscaria that seats about 25 people – from the name, to the surrounding light fixtures and art, to the meticulously composed cocktail and snack menu. Read all about their concept and how you can (or could) steampunk too on the blog.
Praça das Flores 63, Principe Real
No known phone website
Daily, 15h30 – 01h; Fri – Sat, 15h30 – 2h
With more than 100 different local craft beer and imported brews, it’s no surprise this tiny corner-spot in Principe Real is popular with the more discerning beer drinkers. When Super Bock and Sagres aren’t quenching your thirst, pop in for a pint of something hoppy, fruity, or exotic. The price tag on their selection is significantly more than you’d pay for a local imperial, but believe us, it’s worth it. Promotions and special taps are scheduled monthly, so you might just get lucky and find your new favorite IPA on discount. Not in the mood to drink? Don’t worry! You can take room temperature craft beers home to chill in your fridge.
Duque Brewpub €€
Calcada do Duque, 49-51, Bairro Alto
213 469 947 website
Sun – Wed, 15h – 24h; Thu, 15h – 1h; Fri – Sat, 15h – 2h
If you’re looking for a brew with a view, this is the brewpub to check out. Whether you descend the cobblestone stairs from Bairro Alto or walk up from behind Rossio, you’ll be primed for a cold drink to wet your whistle. The walk is worth it, as Duque offers ten taps that are changed regularly to spout out varieties of Portuguese craft beer ranging from IPA to stout. The snack menu is small, but hits the spot between beers. Show some interest, and the guys behind the counter will take you to the back and show you their process. Be advised, the prices aren’t what you would pay for a Sagres or Super Bock, but the payoff is far more satisfying.
Le Chat €€€
Jardim 9 de Abril – Janelas Verdes, Santos
213 963 668 website
Mon – Sat, 12h30 – 2h; Sun, 12h30 – 24h
This glass ‘box” next door to the the Museu de Arte Antiga is modern, looks exclusive, but welcomes all. Inside and outside seating with great river-front views of the Tejo and some of the cooler looking cobblestone-stepped shortcuts from the gardens to the riverfront. The staff is well-versed in the difference between a martini cocktail and simply vermouth, but you should always be on the safe side and specify just in case – extra extra EXTRA dry – like James Bond. Le Chat also has excellent snacks and larger plates, ranging from salads to panini. Splurge on the cheese plate and finish with the apple crumble and you won’t be sorry!
Pensão Amor €€€
Rua Alecrim 19, Cais do Sodre
213 143 399 website
Sun – Wed, 12h – 3h; Thu – Sat, 12h – 4
You’ve most likely heard about the brothel-turned-cocktail lounge, but what you might not expect is the sheer size of it, and just how many nudie pictures, paintings, and discarded nipple tassels can fit into one place. Don’t let that fool you – it’s often difficult to get a table come 6pm, but there’s plenty to see while you wait. One of the bathrooms features Barbie being desecrated by a G.I. Joe, but it’s not only the kitsch that brings us back, it’s the drinks — dozens of cocktail concoctions, paired with the velvet-covered armchairs that sink almost too low to be entirely comfortable. The service is slow, the drinks are expensive, but it’s the price you pay to enjoy the scenery, and/or catch the sporadic burlesque show in the back.
Travessa de Santa Teresa 28, Principe Real
213 952 697 website
Hours: Mon – Sat, 18h – 3h; Sun, 20h – 2h
If you’ve got a penchant for the 1920s and Art Nouveau, ringing a doorbell to enter a speakeasy with an inside garden, or hanging out drinking expertly-made (albeit slow) cocktails in billiard parlors, you’ve come to the right place. Foxtrot has been a staple on the border between Barrio Alto and Principe Real for decades and the cozily-ornate interior matches its history. Happy hour is from 18h – 21h with half-priced beer and a special cocktail (usually a caipirinha). Their kitchen is open late and offers both starters and entrees if you need to grease your wheels a bit.
Pavilhão Chinês €€€
Rua Dom Pedro V, 89/91, Principe Real
213 424 729 website
Daily, 18h – 2h
This place is half bar, half bizarro collection of a cat lady and former soldier. On shelves and curio cabinets are uniforms, matchbooks, toys, airplanes, model ships, moto-helmets, and more. You half expect the eyes of the oil-painted portraits to follow you around this museum of the weird, but after drink number two, you feel like just as much of a fixture as the billiards table. While the drinks aren’t cheap, they’re interesting and of an astounding variety. The menus feel and look like reference manuals. Closing your eyes and simply plunking a finger on a random page won’t disappoint. Don’t expect snappy service (the staff is just as ancient as the space) so it’s a good idea to order another halfway into your first.