Campo de Santa Clara
The biggest and still the best outdoor market in Lisbon, every Tuesday morning and Saturday pretty much all day. “Ladra” means “thief” – while you can get some nice artisanal jewelry, 17th-century tiles, copper pots, and vintage LPs, this is also THE market to replace your missing phone charger or stolen backpack, pick up some off-the-truck books, and haggle over Soviet gas masks. Best place for gramophones in Europe bar none.
Morning time is when things are particularly sketchy, if you like that sort of thing. By 9, it’s mostly very nice shoppers, very civilized and such. Bonus: excellent street musicians forming impromptu gypsy orchestras with some real class and skill.
Take 712, 734 and 28 Electrico tram, or go by taxi, who all know where it is.