Lisbon has continued its rapid transformation this year, with gut-wrenching closures of some of Atlas’ favorite places and the simultaneous opening of some new inventive spots. The city is changing, and while we mourn the loss of the old, we are out and about re-visiting and supporting the survivors and scoping out the newcomers, as always.
We dedicate this list to all of the establishments risen from the ashes like phoenixes, despite rising rents and increased competition and private equity funds. You got this — hang in there!
Without further ado, here is the best of Lisbon, according to scientific research by Atlas correspondents and collaborators:
EATING
…Bifana: O Trevo always wins in my book, even though it’s damn near impossible to get one for lunch. The secret’s out on this spot in Largo do Camões, thanks to Anthony Bourdain, so I recommend that you try this one out on off-peak hours. – Ellis Dixon
…Quiosque: Sit at Mr. Chips long enough and you are bound to see some weird sh.t. Said weird sh.t is all handled quite well by owner Rosaria, her daughter Inês, and the slightly tipsy dude who helps sometimes. They’ve been dealing with the non-stop local, non-Portuguese-speaking tourist, and sometimes rowdy non-hash-dealing dealer traffic here for years — day in and day out, light rain or shine. And they handle each and every beer, coffee, pastel de nata, and simple sandwich and crisps (or chips) order with the same indiscriminate diligence, courtesy, and grace . Located in the heart of Cais do Sodré (directly across the avenida from the station), this humble little joint also doubles as a wonderful people-watching spot. – Bogdan Kamuta
…Sopa da Pedra: Snack-Bar “O Lopes”. A shady tasca with two tables on a corner in a residential neighborhood. Run by a grumpy old couple who cook a sopa da pedra capable of restoring faith in the city of Lisbon. – Levy Mealone
…(Revamped) Tasca: Chef Leonor Godinho revives Lisbon’s tasca culture at her cozy and familiar Vida de Tasca. Savor perfectly crafted croquettes, pasteís de bacalhau, bitoques, and a classic daily menu. A true homage to tradition. – Patricia Imbarus
…Restaurant for a Hush Hush Meeting: Estrela da Sé. This Loja com História is one of only a few of its kind left in Lisbon. When you enter, the space looks tiny: narrow and cramped with only a few standing places at the counter where you can grab a drink or a coffee and chat with the guy at the counter (who has likely worked there for the better portion of his lifetime). There, you can also order a petisco or a soup of the day, which are always prepared fresh, daily. Where this restaurant diverges from the norm can be found through a dark stained pine doorway that leads you into a long hall of private dining boxes fit for romantic interludes, or business deals, shady or otherwise. Once you’ve decided whether to dine and conspire or snack and chit chat, try the roasted chorizo, stewed broad beans, the delicious Portuguese iscas (liver), or the namesake steak. And ask the waiter to tell you the story of how this restaurant served the Aljube prison and which famous Portuguese maestro used to have his mail delivered there. – Ellis
…Restaurant for a Very Long Seafood Lunch: Último Porto. You’ll be sitting next to shipping containers, the dishes will take 45 minutes to arrive, and you’re going to love it all anyway. The food is amazing, but the place has genuine sex appeal for a the seafood aficionado unafraid of getting a bit splashed by the product and the type of diner not expected back at the office after lunch. – O Vádio
…Service: Sanduichita. The beautiful women at this semi-typical train station stop-and-go at Cais do Sodré are so efficient it’s scary. BONUS: This is also the best place to observe Lisbon’s more colorful characters and people-watch in general, and — other than the occasional Atlas correspondent or nervous traveler — avoid expats. – Bogdan
…Portuguese Food When in Doubt About Where to Go: Rio Grande is open all day with a menu that never disappoints. From octopus to pork cheeks, all the traditional standards are there, and there’s always ample space for outdoor (and indoor) dining as you prefer. Great food, good vibes, at a fantastic go-to central spot. – Ellis
…Breakfast: Boulangerie. They’ve got it all. A stunning view, delicious eggs, fantastic croissants, smoked salmon, fresh fruit, awesome smoothies, perfect coffee — the works. No matter what you’re craving, you can find it here, and they might make you avocado toast, or a variation thereof, on demand. Pro tip: if you’re trying to save some dough, look at the a la carte section, where you can get away with paying significantly less for an egg on a croissant than if you go for the combo. They’re open for lunch and dinner too. – Ellis
…Açai Bowl: For the best around, head to Costa da Caparica and pay a visit to Dona Tosta. Packed with fresh fruit, crunchy granola, and honey, it’s pure açai perfection — and don’t skip the peanut butter topping! The owner, delightfully grumpy and serious about his craft, keeps the vibe refreshingly authentic. Just leave your laptop and bad mood at home! – Patricia
…Brazilian Rodizo: Fogo de Chão Brazilian Steakhouse. This is as good as it gets! I’m from Rio, so I should know. Oh, and they have three locations. The one in Campo Pequeno is adorable. Highly recommended. – Eliza
…Italian: The romantic atmosphere and charming service at Ristorante Pizzaria Come Prima make it an ideal spot for a cozy dining experience. Whether you’re savoring a classic ragu or a crisp pizza, it’s a true taste of Italy. Perfect for a date or a special night out. – Patricia
…Roma-Style Late-Night Ice Cream: Not enough Lisbon ice cream shops are open for a post-dinner treat like they are back home in Roma, but Gelato Davvero on Avenida Dom Carlos I is, Thursday to Sunday. And it’s not just the excellent flavors and friendly staff that sets this one apart — it also has a pinball machine. – O Vádio
…Tacos: Duro de Matar by Food Riders (located in the Unicorn Factory) serves up incredible tacos bursting with flavor, paired with killer mezcal cocktails. With its buzzing atmosphere, great tunes, and effortlessly cool vibe, it’s the hotspot where Lisbon’s in-crowd gathers. – Patricia
…Nepalese / Indian restaurant: Royal Spice Restaurant is listed as Nepalese but most reviews list it as Indian — they have a mix of dishes, and all of them are good. What’s more, they can generally accommodate big groups at short notice, which is a big plus. – Eden Flaherty
…Ramen: AFURI brings a slice of ramen perfection to Lisbon. Known for its house-made noodles and the most soul-warming vegetarian ramen in town, it’s a haven for noodle lovers. The modern, cozy vibe pairs perfectly with their balanced flavors and attention to detail. – Patricia
…Sushi: It makes sense that By Koji has taken the place of Bonsai (RIP) as our favorite fancy sushi spot. The word on the street is that the head sushi chef was enticed away from Bonsai to head up and oversee By Koji’s operation, and he certainly brought the best along with him. The sushi is expensive, but it’s absolute perfection, using as many local fish and ingredients as possible to ensure what they’re serving is super fresh: think oysters from Peniche and imperador sushi. Mmmmm. Deliciously decadent. – Ellis
…Vietnamese: Tré Bambu is a little oasis of calm and serenity just a few steps from the madness of Avenida da Liberdade, especially if you can get a table in the garden. Also, the best Vietnamese this side of Krakow. – O Vádio
…Vegetarian: Os Tibetanos offers a serene escape with a menu rich in Asian-inspired flavors, featuring vegetarian and plant-based dishes like seitan curry, tofu steak, and Nepalese momos. For those with diverse tastes, the extensive menu ensures there’s something for everyone. Set on Rua do Salitre, this cozy spot, complete with a tranquil shaded garden, is the perfect setting for a satisfying and meat-free meal. – Patricia
…Vegan: Kong – Food Made With Compassion still takes this one. Vegan versions of your favorite Portuguese dishes make it a go-to spot for non-meat eaters visiting Portugal. Also, they have the best parfait in the city. – Eden
…Vegan Place to Take People Who Aren’t Vegan: Tucked away in Lisbon’s lively Intendente, O Gambuzinho is a hidden vegan gem serving vibrant, seasonal dishes packed full of flavor. With its cozy vibe and creative menu, it’s the perfect spot to indulge in plant-based comfort. Don’t miss the pica-pau; trust us, you’ll want seconds. – Patricia
…Vegan Donuts and Ice Cream: Scoop’n’dough is Lisbon’s go-to spot for artisan vegan donuts and creamy gelato. Handmade with love and creative flair, their treats are indulgent, plant-based perfection. Don’t leave without trying the raspberry one, it’s pure magic (as long as you’re not wearing a white shirt… you’ve been warned). – Patricia
DRINKING (AND NOT)
…Bar: Procópio remains as hard to get into as ever, and it’s not because of “face control” — anyone is welcome — but because it’s popular with an impressive slice of today’s Lisbon, from hardened alcoholics to families with older kids to hip young things looking for a perfect mocktail. Why? It has that perfect combination of old-world decor that gets one in a relaxed state of mind upon gaining entry, competent bartenders not supplicating for anyone’s approval, and enough seating for a small group of friends, but in a space tight enough to make it natural to strike up conversations with strangers, now that that’s allowed again. – O Vádio
…Bartender(s): Catarina Correia and Diogo Lopes, former employees of the famed Red Frog and Monkey Mash, joined forces to open the wildly successful Nexo 1/2 Bar in Campo Ourique, and now they’re moving on to a new and exciting project: Catfish Bar in Praça Alegria, opening soon. You won’t want to miss it, because judging by what they’re capable of, it’s going to be epic. – Ellis
…Bar for an Amicable Divorce: Tasca Mastai is Lisbon’s ultimate hangout for cool vibes and killer drinks. Slinging Aperol Spritzes, bold Negronis, and bottomless limoncello, this Italian haven also serves perfect pizza crusts and crave-worthy snacks. With a playlist of Italian classics and a friendly crowd, it’s the go-to for great tunes, cheap thrills, and serious comfort food. Where else will you get an amicable divorce, if not here? – Patricia
…New Craft Beer Bar: Pravda Craft Mission is the new Ukrainian craft beer joint in Marvila. Come for the beer names, stay for the beer. – Levy
…Beer: AMO Brewery is where Margaret, the genius behind the beer, works her magic. Every pint she pours is an adventure, balancing bold creativity with craft precision. The cozy bar feels like a hidden treasure; bonus points for serving up irresistible homemade pretzels with real German mustard. While every brew dazzles, the Pink Sunglasses has our hearts right now. – Patricia
…Cocktail: Toca da Raposa is the go-to refuge for locals escaping the bustling vibe of nearby Chiado. The space is scattered with round mirrored tables, ideal for date nights, and a sleek stone bar that’s perfect for solo visitors. The concise cocktail menu features anywhere from 10 to 15 creative options, each named after an animal, such as the Hippopotamus — a blend of rum, fig leaf, and papaya. All ingredients are hand crafted, like fermented fruits, foraged herbs, and distilled surprises, all locally grown. – Eliza
…Affordable Negroni: Italy Caffe in Saldanha. If you’re a fan of the cocktail, the price here is a big relief, and the atmosphere decidedly un-hipster compared to other places that serve it — so much so that you’re likely to stay for the pizza, which is also very good. – O Vádio
…Instagrammable Coffee Shop: Dramático AND Thank You, Mama Café. Dramático may be tiny, but its coffee is nothing short of epic. This specialty spot serves up rich, perfectly brewed cups that pack a punch BUT their hours are all funky, so check their Insta for updates. Meanwhile, Thank You, Mama is a cozy haven for specialty coffee enthusiasts. With its inviting atmosphere, expertly brewed coffee, homemade treats, and a parade of friendly doggos ready for cuddles, it’s the ideal spot to unwind and feel at ease. – Patricia
…Social Place for Non-Drinkers to Tolerate Drinkers: Hidden just off the beaten path, Bar Old Vic oozes vintage cool with its seasoned bartenders, a crowd full of stories, and a cocktail menu that doesn’t quit. Yes, the drinks are pricey, but those maraschino cherries? Worth it. Sink into red velvet booths, shoot some pool, and soak in the vibes of one of Lisbon’s most intriguing haunts. – Patricia
ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT
…New(ish) Museum: The revamped CAM – Centro de Moderna in Gulbenkian Foundation. The program and curation are impeccable; the building beautiful, and the outdoors area inspiring. Also — oh my god kill me, here I go — just perfect to bring your toddler and still feed your brain. – Levy
…Fado: Povo. Sure, it’s on Pink Street, but don’t think that means the entertainment or menu is subpar as a result. The rotating resident fadistas are top-notch, as is the menu. Pro tip: The kitchen stays open until 2h to serve one of the more delicious pregos you can find at that time or any other. The fado will have ended long ago, but the party in your mouth will leave just the right amount of saudade for this spot after the bill has been paid. – Ellis
…Live Rock/Indy Music Venue: Lisboa Ao Vivo has a perfect layout that doesn’t exist in any other spot in Lisbon anymore: the area in front of the stage is small and comfortable enough for those on the sides to listen and sway and those in the center to exchange sweat with each other in more physically demanding ways, and there’s an area upstairs if you need to feel more VIP or are, say, pregnant, PLUS the bar is in a convenient location between the entrance and the stage, and there’s another one sligning beer outside for the smokers, PLUS the bathrooms are right next to the bars, PLUS the sound system is designed to reach you where you want to be reached and not where you don’t — you get the picture. It helps that whoever’s in charge of bookings these days has decent taste. – O Vádio
…Museum Off the Beaten Path: The Museu Medeiros e Almeida is just off Avenida da Liberdade but far from the beaten track, with few visitors wandering the opulent rooms of this former mansion. The museum hosts the vast collection of art and antiques acquired by businessman and car importer António Medeiros e Almeida. – Eden
…Museum to Take the Kids: We got introduced to the Pavilhão do Conhecimento – Ciência Viva when a former Atlas contributor invited us to their daughter’s birthday party, and we were blown away by all this place has to offer. Whether your kid is into building, hands-on science experiments, illusions, art and design, or just good clean sky-high daredevil bicycle feats, this is the place to go. You can easily spend an entire afternoon in there if you have nowhere else to be, as all ages will find something to enjoy. – Ellis
…Circus: Ever since its inception in Ancient Rome and then its rebirth in 18th century England, good circus has never been an easy thing to do. And Lisbon — despite being home to a lot of ancient Roman stuff — has been somewhat lacking. To make things worse — with the continued rise of Cirque do Soleil and the increasing absurdity of global events, circus is now very much mainstream, and thus, good circus has now become damn near impossible to find. Fortunately, Lisbon has something worthy of actually being rightfully called a good circus. Zirkus Mond Lisboa, out by the airport, is that something. Bring the kids. – Bogdan
...Open Mic: Shaka’s Open Mic at Camones’ Cinebar. Some seven years ago, local man of many hats Joaquim aka “Shaka” set out to single-handedly introduce Lisbon to the concept of what an actual open mic night should look and sound like. The results? A complete redefinition of the genre itself, a unique weekly blend of local and not-so-local talent and lack there of, the creation of one of Lisbon’s most legendary bands, a full house every single week (except August) for three consecutive years (with week-in-advance-sign-up slots filled within minutes to boot), and an overall good time for all involved. – Bogdan
OUTDOORS AND SPORTS
… Lisbon Park: Tapadas das Necessidades. A feast for the eyes, soul, and feet (for 8 years and counting at least). If you read my initial impressions of the magic of this place back then, you’ll know what I mean. – Bogdan
…Place to Run: Monsanto. Get an app like Wikiloc or Alltrails and go cross-country. There are plenty of small trails where you cannot hear city noise. Funny story: I was hiking in a remote place and saw a guy on a bike looking at his phone. He asked: “Want to see something on my phone?” I thought: Fuck no. He showed me a picture of a squirrel and my faith in humanity was restored (at least temporarily). – Martha B. Crocker
…Beach Within City Limits: Paço de Arcos. The locals say it’s where the Tejo poo starts to stop, the short but intricate hike there is enough to keep most tourists away, and the surrounding area has plenty of cultural, natural, and gastronomical wonder to discover too. – Bogdan
…Nearby Beach: Praia de Santa Rita north of Santa Cruz. Take a kite for great fun with the family. Also take warm clothes, and be careful when swimming. Sea is rough, landscape amazing. From the north side of the beach there is an eastward trail with nice wooden pavement. – Martha
…Beach to Get Naked (If You’re Willing to Travel): Praia Submarino near Alvor in the Algarve, hands down. Of course, you’ll need to know when the tide will roll in so you can time your visit, otherwise you will be forced to swim out through a rock arch and over some pretty gnarley rocks and algae. Perhaps because of its limited access, this is the perfect place for sunbathing and exploring in the nude. The impeccable beauty of this beach and the impressive amount of private rock chambers make for a memorable experience, and generally, one in which you’ve got it all to yourself and your partner if you bring one along. – Ellis
Mostly Flat Bikeride: Terreiro do Paço to Oriente (and back). Nearly 10k (one way) of flat designated bike-path with nothing but car traffic on one side and both parked and speeding semis,* train tracks, and shipping containers on the other. Plus Lisbon’s housing crisis in growing tent-city form here or there, a few runners, and the ocasional out-of-place scooterer, that is. But other than that — mostly smooth and lonesome sailing (at least until you start to approach Oriente). *PRO-TIP: Stay the f off the road between the bike path and the train tracks on weekdays. That’s some “Terminator 2” sh.t right there… – Bogdan
…Place to be Outdoors with a Toddler: Quinta Pedagógica dos Olivais. My favorite place to spend time with the toddler on sunny days. It has it all – friendly donkeys, a vegetable garden, a esplanada to have a beer. And it’s free. – Levy
…Place to Conquer Your Fears: Escala25 is Lisbon’s only outdoor roped climbing center, and for the last two and a half years it has been our favorite place to train. Full disclosure: Atlas helped getting the place up and running, so it’s no wonder we love it as we do. First off, it’s easily accessible and the staff is super friendly and helpful, and perhaps more importantly, the routes are varied in level of difficulty from beginner to expert and are genuine fun to jump on. The existence of five auto-belays means you can go roped climbing alone even though the devotees of the space are generally keen to belay you if you ask. No more stench of old crusty climbing shoes or sweaty harnesses. This space is a much-needed breath of fresh air. – Ellis
…Playground: The Caselas playground – the largest and best-equipped park in the city. In the forest perimeter of Monsanto, it has a large outdoor area and a covered zone nearby (at Parque Infantil e Juvenil Coberto da Quinta de Santo António) for rainy days. (Look at me, reviewing playgrounds.) – Levy
…Hike: For something nearby, head towards Serra de Montejunto and visit the seventeenth-century Royal Ice Factory (book in advance). To the north there are caves, to the south, there is more vegetation and the Nossa Senhora das Neves Chapel in a lovely, very Instagrammable, ruin. There is a good picnic park to the south with a grill and a nice café with a cool wooden interior and blankets, great burgers and toasts, and a decadent cappuccino. Costa Vicentina is perfect for solo hikers with its nicely marked trails, and straightforward North-South or South-North orientation. (Read about Atlas’ trip, with detailed itineraries, here).
On a general note, check out if you are hiking in a hunting area. If you are, avoid being confused with a wild boar by hunters. If you are not in a hunting area, then pay even more attention, there may be people hunting illegally who will not go back to help you if they shoot you accidentally. – Martha
…Place Around Lisbon to Train for Alpine Mountaineering – The Alto do Formosinho trail in Arrábida. The trail meanders and offers all but snow and ice as far as terrain, including several types of scree and a variety of options for scrambling, depending on your risk profile. Since the peak is only 501 m, however, you’ll need to summit it several times to simulate the Matterhorn. We recommend running as much of it as you can for added intensity. – O Vádio
…Weekend getaway: Termas do Cro Hotel near beautiful Foz Coa. Modern with an interior pool with an amazing award-winning design. It has those cool suites with a bathtub in the room. – Martha
...Place to Pick a Fight: Corner of Travessa Remolares and Rua dos Remolares. If that’s your thing, of course. Central Lisbon’s infamous fake-coke-and-hash dealers are multiplying at an alarming rate. Especially on this charming little corner, as the sun goes down and or/any given weekend approaches. Heads-up, though: you will likely lose. Because from the fake drugs to increasingly greatly outnumbering any imaginable clique (including the cops) to an inherent overall hyena mentality (both business and fight-wise), these very young and very not-so-young men — albeit increasingly aggressive — prefer to stay well-groomed, for the most part. Meaning that — if bark ever does come to bite — they do not play fair. But, again, if that’s your thing — these are arguably some of Lisbon’s what Chuck D termed “the powers that be” most worth fighting… So godspeed to ya’, you unsung hero you. – Bogdan
SHOPPING
…Market for Communists: Feira da Ladra. If capitalism has ruthlessly exploited and then callously discarded it — be it off the tail end of a truck or a Fine Arts degree — you can find it here. For example, Lenin’s (Vladimir, not John’s) pre-revolution speeches (circa 1907-1917), on vinyl, in near-mint condition, and — if your haggling skills are true to the cause — for non-vinyl prices. Or socks. – Bogdan
…Toy Store: Petit Love in LX Factory has everything that you would have wanted as a kid and more. It shies away from plastic and instead fills its shelves with toys made of metal, wood, cardboard, and other more sustainable materials while placing an emphasis on good design and beautiful items that will educate as well as titillate your resident youngster. Pretty much anything you buy from the shop will make the kids’ room into a more magical place. Highly recommended. – Ellis
…Second-Hand English Bookshop: From Lao Tzu to Gogol to Sartre to Hesse to Fleming to Twain to Clancy to King and everyone in between — Eduarda and her humble little corner of the world, aka Bookshop Bivar, are our go-to for all things literary in somewhat used form. – Bodgan
…Used Clothing Store: POP Closet near Carmo is a bit too hip for its own good — the kind of place where the clerks have stepped out of Vogue circa 1992 — but if you dig around, there are some good clothes at decent prices. Decent for Lisbon, where used clothes cost an arm and a leg. – Eden
…More Reasonably-Priced Used Clothing Store: Any of the Humana stores in the city are good for more reasonably priced used clothes, but ‘HUMANA Vintage’ in Graça also offers you that hip hit you crave without the price tag of Lisbon’s other vintage stores. – Eden
…Place to Buy Green Onions: Supermercado Chinês Hua Ta Li. Aka spring onions, aka scallions, aka cebolinhas — as per the locals (NOTE: And not cebolinhos, which are just chives). It’s no secret the locals are not too big on this essential green. Most Asian and Eastern European grocery shops are well aware, and therefore sometimes have a few bunches in stock. However, this misdesignated humble little grocer delivers both the freshest and most bang for your €1, cebolinha-wise, each and every time (PRO-TIP: They tend to have real cucumbers too). – Bogdan
…Place to Fix Your Shoes: Atelier Capinha. Sr. Alfredo takes pride in his work. It costs, but he’s worth it. Among the few left who can fix your desert boots with proper crepe sole, but he’s a master taking old well-loved and travelled boots of any sort and making them look and feel good again (and he’ll be honest when he thinks it’s just not worth the money, or his time). – O Vádio
