Get your Brazilian concepts and fancy picanha in this David Lynch-style steakhouse.
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Praça Luís de Camões 37, 1200-243 Lisboa | 211 348 071 | website
Chiado
Daily, 12h – 16h30, 19h – 23h30
Walking into this richly-decorated semi-tropical-themed restaurant in Chiado is a pleasure once you get past the host stand. An oversized chandelier comprised of overturned red and green glass bottles hangs over a black and white checkered floor and red leather booths worthy of a Twin Peaks cameo, while larger-than-life banana plants section off the world outside from that within. It’s no wonder judging merely by the decor, that Chef Kiko, according to the restaurant’s website, is one of the most concepted (sic) Portuguese chefs. As you may already know, concepts are Atlas’ favorite. The menu of the Brazilian-themed steakhouse is just as eclectic as the setting, with staples like picanha (thin steak) and feijoda (bean-based stew) but with a twist, of course. Take your waiter up on the suggestion to begin with a caipirinha (we tried both the traditional lime and the passion fruit), but we would caution you against accepting the couvert made up of styrofoam cheese puffs, a weird green spread, tiny cubed cheese, and sausage paté, all of which left us dubious as to what the night would bring.
Luckily, the waiter offered us some feijoada croquettes on the house that were served with a delicious passion fruit sauce, and this perked us up a bit. Paired with the O Talho Lisboa Syrah, we were primed for the meaty mains. I went for the rosbife de maminha (roast beef) served with tartar and wasabi and laden with salmon roe caviar, while my companion had the wet-aged ribeye steak served with ham and bacon farofa (toasted cassava meal), chimichurri, and grilled pineapple. Both main dishes were very good, and certainly well…ahem…concepted. To end the evening on a sweet note, we rounded it out with some coffee and the creamy doce de leite mousse served with a thousand-layer pastry side and goiaba (guava) ice cream. All in all, we can recommend this spot in Chiado if you’re looking for something different with just the right degree of pomp.
