Rock Climbing Around Lisbon
Updated March 29, 2018 There’s tons of climbing around Lisbon, even multi-pitch trad if you know where to go. The climbing community is a tight one, and very generous. Please don’t abuse the fact that they share topos. Buy the guides from the authors when you can — there’s a great guide that came out in the summer of 2017 by Carlos “Cuca” Simes. And don’t bolt unless you talk to the locals first — some crags are being saved for natural climbing.
There’s also a Part 2. For a full list of Portugal’s climbing crags, check out the map. If you need gear, check out Climbing Gear under Buy.
Farol da Guia Crag in Cascais: Fancy climbing some limestone right on the Atlantic?
Farol da Guia was set up by the local climbing association Desnivel and is maintained by many volunteers. It’s crowded on weekends and in the summer when it’s in the shade (morning is best), but there’s always room for everyone, and it has routes from III to 7c and beyond. Topos are available here (Portugal uses the French rating system – for conversions, see http://www.alpinist.com/p/online/grades).
The crag is a few km from Cascais along the Avenida Marginal, GPS coordinates 38.69141, -9.43485. Parking is typically easy if you go into the side streets, and if you have no car, you can still reach it by train and bike, or a beautiful 1-hr walk from the Cascais train station. From Lisbon, take the Linha de Cascais train at the Cais do Sodre train station (or at Santos, Alcântara,
or Belem) all the way to the last stop, Cascais. From here, you can walk, grab a €4-6 euro taxi to Farol da Guia, or, if you come early enough, rent a bike for around €3.50 from the kiosk in front of the station.
The crag entrance is directly to the right of the lighthouse (farol) when facing the water, and across the road from the gas station (good coffee, bad snacks). DIRECTIONS
The walled-in area east of the crag has some great cafés for inexpensive tostas (sandwiches) and more fancy fare too.
Penedo da Amizade in Sintra: This is the closest area for trad climbing, and also a spectacular location underneath centuries-old palaces and castles, including the majestic Castelo dos Mouros, all in front of the blue smile of the ocean.
You can drive, or grab a 40-min train from Rossio train station (DIRECTIONS) to Sintra, to reach the Penedo da Amizade (Boulder of Friendship) crag. Here you can use your cams and friends and nuts if you like, or stick with the quickdraws — there are even several bolted multi-pitch routes, which can make for a wonderful picnic under the walls of Castelo dos Mouros. Topos are here and are also now posted on a board at the start of the crag. It’s also much easier to reach now, thanks to the fastifidious renovation of the pleasant walking path to Vila Sassetti. The entrance to the trail is around 38.795014, -9.391798, next to a small park with a tiny artificial climbing wall. Enter through the gate on the left, which immediately leads to a series of stairs, go through the whole quinta, continue past Vila Sassetti and out of the walled-in area, where you’ll find the board with the topo.