AKA “that place on the stairs,” Securas cooks inexpensive traditional Portuguese, served by the same two or three guys since we’ve landed on these shores, plus the occasional new hire when things get busy. Don’t be put off by the large number of tourists here: this place is legit, and the one restaurant where we break an Atlas rule: don’t dine at places where they beg you to come in. The bife na pedra (beef on a rock) comes out sizzling on a hot stone like the un-cut fajita you never had but always wanted. The polvo grelhado (grilled octopus) is always seasoned with the freshest of herbs, and the beef in port wine sauce is heavenly. If salad’s your thing, go someplace else, as you’re lucky to get a flaccid tomato and shaved carrot garnish. The good news is, the walk up the stairs makes you nice and hungry and the cheap house red goes perfectly with the view of the castle at sunset. Most nights, you can catch Lisbon’s oldest and most recognizable busker sitting on the steps playing a tune. He very generously accepts tips, and deserves them.
A few Lisbon hotels offer their saunas and steam rooms, and sometimes their swimming pools, to non-guests, but it will cost you.