There are certain things in Lisbon that people photograph almost aggressively: tram 28, the guy selling Óbodios-style ginjinha in a chocolate cup, and, somewhere near the top of the list, the rainbow umbrella canopy floating above Pink Street in Cais do Sodré. The phenomenon began soon after the Rio Grande became one of Atlas’ favorite haunts (check out the Best of Lisbon 2024), only to become the spectral cherry on top of Lisbon’s pinkest former red-light district.
Depending on who you ask, it’s either a joyful symbol of visibility and community or proof that Lisbon has become one giant outdoor content studio. Like most things in this city, the truth is probably somewhere in the middle, and that’s absolutely fine by us.
So let the debate continue. A new documentary series by filmmakers Sam Grasberger and Toninho Neto digs into the surprisingly emotional story behind the installation.
Originally created in 2021 to honour Lisbon Pride after that year’s celebrations were cancelled, the umbrellas quickly evolved from temporary public art into something bigger: a landmark, a meeting point, a backdrop to thousands of nights out, awkward Tinder dates, tourist selfies, and genuine moments of connection. The series explores how a bunch of floating umbrellas somehow became woven into the identity of modern Lisbon.
Through interviews with artists, residents, tourists, and local business owners, Umbrellas looks at the way public art changes the emotional temperature of a place (especially in a neighbourhood like Cais do Sodré) that has spent the last decade shapeshifting faster than most Lisboetas can keep up with.
It also wades directly into the current debate around the possible removal of the installation by the Freguesia da Misericórdia, raising larger questions about who cities are actually for, what kind of culture gets preserved, and whether public spaces are allowed to be joyful anymore.
The first episode launched on Friday, and new episodes are set to drop every Friday on the directors’ social channels (@sam.gillen and @toninho491), with the full documentary premiering on YouTube once the series concludes.
Which means you now have a socially acceptable reason to spend time on Instagram this week.
Go on. We’re not judging.
